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The Chafing=Dish Supper 



BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 



THE LITTLE DINNER. One vol., 12mo, 
$1.00. 

THE CHAFING-DISH SUPPER. One vol., 
12mo, 75 cents. 



The Chafing=Dish 
Supper 



By 
Christine Terhune Herrick 




4*V20V-1Z, 



«V 



New York 

Charles Scribner's Sons 

1894 




Copyright, 1894, by 
Charles Scribner's Sons 






TROW DIRECTORY 

PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY 

NEW YORK 




TABLE OF CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE 

When to Use the Chafing-Dish. . . 1 



CHAPTER II. 
Practical Suggestions, . 



CHAPTER III. 

Beginning with the Egg, 



. 1G 



vi £a6fe of Contents 



CHAPTER IV. 

PAGE 

A Pretty Kettle of Fish, ... 31 



CHAPTER V. 
Oysters, Clams, Scallops, ... 42 

CHAPTER VI. 
With the Crustaceans, .... 52 

CHAPTER VII. 
A Chapter on Entrees, .... 60 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Miscellaneous Dainties 75 



$a6fe of Contents vii 

CHAPTER IX. 

PAGE 

Rechauffes, 86 

CHAPTER X. 

The Chafing-Dish Menu, ... 99 

INDEX, 109 





CHAPTER I 



WHEN TO USE THE CHAFING-DISH 



The chafing-dish began its career in the 
hands of the bachelors. 

With them it was a substitute for a 
hearthstone, and supplemented by cosey 
bachelor apartments and a good club, 
measurably consoled them for the domes- 
tic joys most of them neither missed nor 
desired. 

Assisted by the chafing-dish, they could 
— and often did — not only "welcome 
cheerful evening in," but also see it out 
in a blaze of glory. Even now, when the 
chafing-dish has become an ordinary sight 



2 £0e C0afLn3;©ie(5 JJuppet 

on family tables, it is still haloed with a 
suggestion of revelry and midnight feasts 
that endears it to the hearts of that large 
class who, amid the proprieties of Philis- 
tia, secretly long for the joys of Bohemia. 

For the chafing-dish has ceased to be 
the peculiar possession of the dweller in 
tents. The most sedate householder now 
owns one, which is often expensive enough 
to exonerate its proprietor from any sus- 
picion of Bohemianism. A solid silver 
chafing-dish should be as good a guar- 
antee of purse and position in these days 
as was a gig in Carlyle's time, and when 
the cooking of a dinner entree in the 
aforesaid dish is personally conducted by 
an irreproachable butler, the acme of ele- 
gance and incongruity has surely been 
reached. 

Never, perhaps, is a chafing-dish more 
out of place than under such circum- 
stances. Its very presence is a plea for 



H2(5en to (Use f0e Cfa$n&<&iB§ 3 

unconventionally, for a license that is 
incompatible with the stern etiquette of 
the feast of ceremony. The chafing-dish 
has no rights at the dinner-table, unless 
perchance the dinner be one of those mer- 
ry, happy-go-lucky "spreads" dear to 
that class of the worthy poor recruited 
from the ranks of artists, journalists, and 
certain workers at literature. 

No ; the chafing-dish is most happily in 
evidence at the midnight supper, the Sun- 
day night tea, and the summer luncheon. 
There it provides a delightful substitute 
for the regulation cooking common on 
such occasions. 

For a long time the man or woman — it 
was usually a man — who achieved a suc- 
cessful product in the chafing-dish was 
regarded by the uninitiated as hardly sec- 
ond to a magician of the Middle Ages. 
But we have changed all that ! The 
dish that has for so long been a valued 



t$t Cffaftng^te^ ^upper 



stand-by to the few who appreciated its 
possibilities and knew how to make the 
most of them, has leaped into sudden 
popularity. Classes of women, of men, 
of women and men, are organized for the 
study of chafing-dish cookery. Clubs 
are formed where the only refreshments 
served are those prepared in the chafing- 
dish. Books have been written in which 
recipes for chafing-dish compounds are 
given with more or less accuracy. Even 
the very poor are learning that by the 
help of a chafing-dish they can prepare 
hot food in the middle of the day without 
cooking themselves as well as the dinner 
over a blazing fire in a wood or coal stove. 
The chafing-dish deserves all that is 
said in its praise. It is simple, clean, 
easily managed, less expensive and cum- 
brous than a gas stove, less odorous and 
dirt-compelling than an oil stove. It 
gives practically no lateral heat, so that 



<VD$tn to (Use f0e ef5aftng;©tG(5 5 

it may be used with comfort on even the 
hottest days. 

Like every other Id ranch of cookery, 
that conducted in the chafing-dish de- 
mands due study. But when certain 
points have been mastered, when one has 
learned the degree of heat required for 
different dishes, and has become familiar 
enough with the appearance of her work 
to know when it is progressing favorably, 
she need fear no contretemps so long as 
she follows rules and uses her judgment. 

Perhaps the chafing-dish is more useful 
on the Sunday supper-table than anywhere 
else. With its assistance that meal ceases 
to be the cheerless, cut-and-dried affair it 
often is in those houses where one maid — 
who is sometimes the only servant — is 
given her Sunday evenings out. Then is 
the time for the mistress of the house to 
display her skill in concocting lobster a la 
Neioburg, or cheese fondii, or broiled 



6 Z$i COcvftnc^isfl puppet 

oysters, or curried eggs ; or in making a 
savory rechauffe from some of the remains 
of the Sunday dinner. 

There are a few people who possess so 
little appreciation of cookery as an art 
that they are bored by the sight of the 
workings of a chafing-dish. These per- 
sons are, happily, in a small minority. 
Nearly everyone feels a keen interest in 
watching the preparation of the dish that 
is soon to gratify his palate, and the 
hostess who presides over a chafing-dish 
is usually flattered or fluttered by finding 
herself the centre of observation. Unless 
she is an exceptionally skilful cook, and 
has a clear and steady head, she will show 
wisdom if she tries no experiments on a 
large audience, and reserves her efforts 
with unfamiliar dishes for a time when 
she has but few spectators. 

As an aid in making appetizing dishes 
of left-overs, the housekeeper will find 



<VQ§m to QJlse f^e £^afing;©i0^ 7 



the chafing-dish especially useful. Cold 
meat, or cold fish of any kind, may be 
converted into a tempting plat on the 
chafing-dish, and it is no small boon to 
the mistress of the house to find that she 
can spare her cook, prepare a savory en- 
tree, and entertain her guests at the same 
time by cooking the principal item of 
her wash-day lunch on the chafing-dish. 
Most useful is it, too, when unexpected 
company makes necessary an addition to 
the meal that was just enough for the 
family before the unlooked - for guest 
arrived. Then is the time when the 
hostess flies for the magic utensil, and 
with eggs, or cheese, or sardines, or a can 
of lobster or salmon, prepares a delicious 
entity tiiat supplies all former deficien- 
cies. 



CHAPTER II 

PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS 

The housekeeper of either sex who cooks 
on a chafing-dish should always be care- 
ful to have all the ingredients at hand 
before beginning operations. Many a 
good dish has been injured, if not actu- 
ally spoiled, because the cook has had to 
wait at the last moment while some one 
hunted for the pepper, or measured the 
milk, or rushed for the lemon-squeezer. 
Most of the measuring should be done in 
advance, and each ingredient should be 
put in place by the hand of the one who 
is to do the cooking. 

The woman who makes much use of 
the chafing-dish will find it advisable to 



$xactkaf J5ugge0fion0 9 

provide herself with a few utensils which 
are to be kept sacred to her service. 
Among them should be a graduated 
measuring-cup of agate iron-ware or of 
glass, and two or three small bowls in 
which she may break and beat eggs. 
One of these should be a pint, another a 
quart bowl. The cook may also have a 
wire egg-whip, although the eggs can 
usually be beaten satisfactorily with a 
silver fork. 

For stirring the compounds in the 
chafing-dish there should be a long-han- 
dled wooden spoon with a rather small 
bowl. Such a spoon makes no noise as 
it rubs against the side of the dish, while 
the friction of a silver fork or spoon on 
the metal produces an unpleasant rasp- 
ing. Some cooks prefer using for pepper 
the little wooden German spice-mills, and 
claim that they thus get fuller strength 
than from the ready-ground condiments. 



A word concerning chafing-dishes. 
There are many makes, and they are of 
many materials. The longing of most 
hearts is for a solid silver, or heavily 
silver-plated chafing-dish. These are 
handsome, durable, and costly. Let 
those who cannot afford to buy such 
console themselves with the knowledge 
that they can cook just as successfully 
in a chafing-dish of agate-iron, copper, 
brass, or nickel, or even of the block-tin 
known as Britannia-ware. The chief ob- 
jection to the last material is common 
to the brass and copper also — the diffi- 
culty of keeping it bright and clean. 
On this account the nickel is to be pre- 
ferred, for this material does not tarnish, 
and requires only a dip in hot water and 
a rub with a chamois to look as good as 
new. It is not so elegant as the silver, 
but that is of little consequence, since 
the proof of the pudding is in the eat- 



(pracf icaf JJuggeeftone / / 

ing and not in the dish in which it is 
cooked. 

The best lamp for a chafing-dish, all 
things considered, is the large asbestos 
lamp covered with a fine wire grating. 
Many of the handsomest chafing-dishes 
are supplied with lamps with two or 
three burners containing round or flat 
wicks. The trouble with these is that 
they do not cook evenly, but keep the 
person in charge busy shaking the blazer 
with one hand to prevent the contents 
from scorching in spots, while the ener- 
gies of the other hand are devoted to 
stirring the ingredients that they may 
not stick to the two or three points where 
the flames below concentrate their heat. 

There are other styles of lamp, one of 
them an open cup holding alcohol, but 
in this the fuel is consumed much more 
rapidly than in the asbestos lamp, which 
gives a broad, steady flame with a mini- 



t2 $0e C#afmg?©i0f5 ^up^er 

mum of consumption of alcohol. Its 
usefulness is increased if it has a double 
cover, by means of which one may have a 
large or a small name at will. 

The question is sometimes asked if a 
chafing-dish is not an expensive luxury 
because of the cost of the alcohol it con- 
sumes. This cost is less than would be 
suspected by those who have not looked 
into the matter. One of the largest of 
the asbestos lamps will burn from an 
hour and a quarter to an hour and a half 
without refilling if it has been really full 
to begin with. It holds about a gill of 
alcohol. With alcohol at seventy cents a 
quart, this makes the fuel cost about six 
cents an hour. Very seldom is a lamp 
burned more than an hour at once* If 
it is kept carefully closed when not in 
use, there is little evaporation. 

In buying a chafing-dish one should be 
chosen that has two pans, the lower one 



(pracficaf ^>ugge0ftons 13 



for hot water, the upper one, or blazer, 
for cooking. The latter is often used 
without the hot-water dish, when the 
contents will not he injured by the direct 
flame beneath, as is the case when quick 
cooking is required. There are many 
other dishes, notably those containing 
milk and eggs, which should be cooked 
over boiling water. 

Some chafing-dishes have handles at- 
tached to both pans— an admirable idea. 
It is an awkward business to lift from the 
supporting rim, or put into it, a handle- 
less pan half full of boiling water. 

The chafing-dishes which seek to sup- 
ply the place of the lower pan by a double 
cover to the lamp, are not equal to those 
with the double pan. Even the gentle 
heat from the small flame does not serve 
as a substitute for the steady, uniform 
cookery only possible over boiling water. 

A criticism frequently passed upon 



i '4 Z§* C0afm^ ( £)i6[5 JJupper 



chafing-dish cookery is that so little of it 
is really clone on the table ; that a maid 
is often kept busy in the kitchen making 
ready the material for the dish the mis- 
tress is preparing in the dining-room. 
As a matter of course a certain amount of 
preparation is necessary for many articles 
cooked in the chafing-dish as there would 
be were they cooked in a frying-pan or 
saucepan on a stove. If the preliminary 
work is done outside, it is to save time at 
the table. In cooking sweetbreads, for 
example, they are usually parboiled before 
they come to the table, simply because 
this method is preferable to keeping the 
guests waiting while the operation is per- 
formed before them. So, in cooking lob- 
ster, this is boiled and picked from the 
shell before it makes its appearance in 
polite society. 

There are many dishes, however, like 
those composed of oysters, clams, kid- 



(pmcficaf £5>usge0fion0 15 



neys, etc., where hardly any preparation 
is required after they come from market 
except what can be done at table when 
the guests are met. 





CHAPTER III 

BEGINNING WITH THE EGG 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

Break five eggs into a bowl, beat them 
with a fork only enough to blend the 
whites and yolks. Melt a tablespoonful 
of butter in the blazer, and turn in the 
eggs. Stir constantly until you have a 
thick, smooth mass. Season with a half 
teaspoonful of salt and a pinch of white 
pepper. Serve at once. 

STIRRED EGGS. 

One gill rich brown gravy or stock. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful minced parsley. 



(30eginnm$ tyit§ f^e (Egg /? 

Five eggs. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

Half saltspoonful white pepper. 

Melt the butter in the blazer, add the 
gravy, and when this is hissing hot, stir 
in the eggs, broken in a bowl and beaten 
as for scrambled eggs. Stir until they 
thicken ; season, and just before serving 
them sprinkle them with the minced pars- 
ley. Serve on toast. 

CREAMED EGGS. 

One gill chicken or veal stock. 

One gill cream. 

Four eggs. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

Pepper to taste. 

Heat together the cream and the stock 
in the blazer, beat the eggs without sep- 
arating, and turn into the dish, stir until 

thick, season and serve. 

2 



1 8 $0e CWw&iBfy puppet 



EGGS WITH CHEESE. 

Five eggs. 

Two heaping tablespoonfuls dry grated 
cheese. Parmesan or old English cheese 
is best for this. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

A dash of cayenne pepper. 

Beat the eggs light, add the cheese, 
the salt, and pepper. Have the butter 
melted in the blazer, turn in the eggs, 
and stir until thick and smooth. Serve 
on toast or crackers. 

EGGS ON ANCHOVY TOAST. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Half pint milk. 

Six eggs. 

One scant teaspoonful salt. 



(§CQinnir\Q tariff tf)e (ggg 19 

White pepper. 

Six slices of buttered toast spread with 
anchovy paste. 

Melt the butter in the blazer, stir in 
the flour, and as soon as it bubbles add 
the milk. Stir until you have a smooth 
white sauce, and then turn in the eggs 
beaten light. Season, and stir constantly 
until you have a thick yellow sauce that 
will almost stand alone. Heap this on 
the anchovy toast and serve at once. 

If you wish to do all the preparation 
on the chafing-dish, you can heat one or 
two tablespoonfuls of butter in the blaz- 
er, and when it is very hot fry in it thin 
slices of bread from which the crust has 
been trimmed. These may be spread 
with the paste and kept warm between 
two heated plates, or over hot water while 
you cook the eggs. 



20 £0e Cf5afm^©i60 §b\xpptv 



EGGS WITH CURRY. 

Five eggs. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One teaspoonful curry-powder. 

One gill milk. 

Half teaspooful salt. 

Cut an onion in half, and rub the in- 
side of the blazer with it before you put 
in the butter. Beat the eggs without 
separating, and add to them the milk in 
which has been dissolved the curry pow- 
der. Turn all into the chafing-dish, and 
stir until smooth. 

POACHED EGGS. 

For these use the hot-water dish alone. 
Have it half full of boiling water, and 
place in it as many poached egg rings as 
it will hold. The water should not be 
deep enough to cover them until after 



(Jgegtnnmg tmf§ f0c <£gg 2/ 

an egg has been broken into each ring. 
More boiling water may then be added. 
Cook until the eggs are set. Serve on 
toast or fried bread. 



EGGS WITH BLACK BUTTER. 

Three tablespoonfuls of butter. 

Half teaspoonf ul vinegar. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Three or four eggs, according to the 
size of the chafing-dish. 

Melt the butter, cook in the blazer un- 
til it is a dark brown — almost black. 
Break in the eggs then, one at a time, 
and carefully, that they may not run 
together. Baste them with the butter 
until they are done, adding the vinegar 
just before taking them up, and sprinkle 
them with the salt and pepper. 



22 $0e £0afin^ ( £)i00 J&upper 



FRIED EGGS. 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in 
the blazer, and as soon as it is hot 
break in the eggs, one by one. Do not 
let them touch, if you can avoid it. 
When set, turn them over and cook on 
the other side. Dust with salt and pep- 
per and serve. 

EGGS AND BACON. 

Cut thin slices of bacon and fry them 
in the blazer until quite crisp. Draw 
them then to the side of the dish, and fry 
eggs in the fat from the bacon. Serve 
together. 

OMELET. 

Beat together in a bowl the whites and 
yolks of five eggs, add to them a gill of 
milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a 
little white pepper. Use both pans of 



Q0egmning t»tf0 t (Je €53 23 

the chafing-dish, putting boiling water in 
the lower one. Melt in the upper two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and turn into 
it the eggs. Cook until set, slipping a 
knife under the edge from time to time, 
to take care that the omelet does not 
stick. When it is done, fold it over care- 
fully, and either transfer it to a hot dish, 
or, better still, serve it from the chafing- 
dish. 

It is possible to cook an omelet in the 
blazer, without the hot-water dish, but a 
small flame must be used and great care 
taken to prevent scorching. 

Parsley omelet, mushroom omelet, ham 
omelet, etc. , may all be made by the above 
recipe. The filling should be strewn over 
the omelet just before it is doubled. 

EGGS WITH TOMATOES. 

Five eggs. 

Half pint stewed tomatoes, or the same 



24 Zfc Cfjaftng^ief} JJupper 

quantity of fresli tomatoes, peeled and 
chopped. 

One tablespoonf ul butter. 

Half tablespoonf ul flour. 

One very small onion, minced fine. 

One small teaspoonf ul salt. 

Pepper to taste. 

Brown the onion in the butter, stir in 
the flour, and when this bubbles, add the 
tomato. Beat eggs without separating, 
and when the tomato boils, stir them in 
very slowly. When they thicken, season 
and serve. 

Cook in blazer. 

EGGS WITH SARDIKES. 

Five eggs. 

Small box sardines. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

Half teaspoonf ul salt. 



QSegmning ttrif f0e (Egg 25 

A little cayenne. 

Bone and skin the sardines, and flake 
them with a fork. Melt the butter, lay 
in the sardines, and cook until they are 
hot through. Add the eggs, beaten with- 
out separating, and when set stir in the 
lemon-juice, salt, and cayenne. 

EGGS AND ANCHOVIES. 

Five eggs. 

A dozen anchovies, skinned and minced. 

One gill cream. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

A dash cayenne pepper. 

Melt the butter, add the cream, and 
when both are hot stir in the beaten eggs. 
When they begin to thicken put in the 
anchovies and cayenne, and cook, stirring 
constantly, until the dish is the consist- 
ency of ordinary scrambled eggs. Serve 
on buttered toast or fried bread. 



26 Z$t €f5afmg;©t00 ^W* x 



EGGS WITH HAM. 

Six eggs. 

Half pound boiled ham, cut in small 
pieces. 

Half tablespoonful onion, minced very 
fine. (Chives may be substituted when 
they are in season.) 

Half teaspoonf ul mustard. 

Two tablespoonf ills butter. 

Brown the onion in the butter, acid the 
ham, sprinkle with the mustard, and cook 
the meat until it begins to crisp. Stir in 
the eggs, and cook until thick. 

EGGS A VITALIENNE. 

Five eggs. 
Half pint milk. 

Half teacupful boiled spaghetti, 
chopped. 

Half teacupful mushrooms, sliced. 



(gcQinninz \nit§ t #e <&qq 27 



One tablespoonf ul butter. 

One tablespoonf ul chopped parsley. 

One scant teaspoonful salt. 

White pepper to taste. 

Melt butter and heat milk in the 
chafing-dish, over hot water. Stir in 
the beaten eggs, and when they begin to 
thicken add the spaghetti, mushrooms, 
parsley, and seasoning. Cook three min- 
utes and serve. 



EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS. 

Five eggs. 

Two tablespoonf uls butter. 

Three tablespoonf uls mushrooms. 

One teaspoonful lemon-juice. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Melt the butter, put in the mushrooms, 
and let them get hot through. Squeeze 
the lemon- juice over them, stir in the eggs, 
add salt and pepper, and cook until thick. 



28 £0e €0aflngs©t*0 puppet 



LYONNAISE EGGS. 

To two tablespoonf uls of butter, melted 
in the chafing-dish, put a small onion, 
sliced very thin and a couple of sprigs of 
parsley, minced, and cook until the on- 
ions are lightly browned. Add a gill of 
milk in which has been dissolved a tea- 
spoonful of flour, stir two or three min- 
utes, and lay in six hard-boiled eggs, each 
cut into four slices. Let them simmer 
for a few minutes, handling them care- 
fully, as they break readily. 

FRICASSEED EGGS. 

Six hard-boiled eggs, each cut crosswise 
into four thick slices. 

One cup good gravy or stock. In 
nearly all of the recipes which call for 
stock canned consomme may be used, or 
failing this, beef extract. 



(Jijeginnmg mii§ f#e (Egg 29 

One teaspoonful butter. 

One very small onion, minced fine. 

One tablespoonful chopped parsley. 

Two teaspoonfuls flonr. 

Salt and pepper at discretion. 

Cook the onion in the butter, stir in 
the flour, and when it bubbles add the 
stock. When it is boiling hot lay in the 
eggs gently, not to break them. Let 
them cook three or four minutes, or un- 
til smoking hot. Season, sprinkle with 
parsley, and serve on fried bread. 

CURRIED EGGS. 

Six hard-boiled eggs, sliced as in pre- 
ceding recipe. 

One tablespoonful butter. 
One tablespoonful flour. 
One small onion, minced. 
Half pint white stock. 
Two tablespoonfuls cream. 



One teaspoonful curry-powder. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

Brown tlie onion in the melted butter, 
stir in the flour and curry-powder, mixed 
together. When they bubble add the 
stock, stir until thick and smooth, put 
in the cream and the sliced egg. Salt to 
taste, and cook until the eggs are heated 
through. 

A SCOTCH RAREBIT. 

Six hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped. 

Two tablespoonf uls butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

One tablespoonful anchovy paste. 

Half pint milk. 

Pinch of cayenne. 

Cook butter and flour together until 
they bubble, add milk, and stir until 
smooth. Put in the anchovy paste and 
cayenne, and one minute later, the eggs. 
Simmer three minutes, and serve on toast. 



CHAPTER IV. 

A PRETTY KETTLE OF FISH 

CREAMED SALMON". 

Two hours before it is needed turn the 
contents of a can of salmon out upon a 
platter. Pick it to pieces with a fork, re- 
moving all bits of bone or skin, and drain 
off the liquid. 

When you are ready to prepare the 
dish, cook together in the chafing-dish 
over hot water a tablespoonful of butter 
and one of flour. When they bubble 
pour in a cupful of milk and stir until 
you have a smooth white sauce. To this 
add the salmon, stirring constantly, sea- 
son with a scant teaspoonf ul of salt and 



3 2 Z$z £0aftn^<£H0f$ ^upper 

three dashes of reel pepper. When the 
fish is thoroughly heated squeeze in the 
juice of half a lemon. Any kind of fish 
may be used in the same way. 

In cooking anything containing milk 
in the blazer, a close watch must be kept 
or the milk will scorch. For this reason 
I advise using the hot-water pan under 
these circumstances. If, however, the 
flame can be regulated and kept down to 
a small point, there is little danger of 
burning. 

CURRIED SALMON. 

One can best salmon. 
One tablespoonful olive-oil. 
One small onion, minced. 
One teaspoonful curry-powder. 
One tablespoonful flour. 
Three gills hot water. 
One scant teaspoonful salt. 
Juice of half a lemon. 



® ^reffg (geftfe of §t00 Ji 

Brown the onion in the oil, stir in the 
flour mixed with the curry-powder, and 
when they are well blended put in the 
boiling water. Salt, turn in the salmon, 
which should have previously been turned 
out and picked over as directed for 
Creamed Salmon, and let it become very 
hot. Acid then the lemon-juice and 
serve. 

CREAMED SALT COD. 

Either soak the cod for a while before 
it is used, or else put it in a colander af- 
ter it is shredded and pour boiling water 
over it two or three times. Make a white 
sauce, as for Creamed Salmon, put in two 
cups of the fish, and when it is smoking 
hot add to it a gill of cream. Or, you 
may omit this, and put in a tablespoonful 
of minced green pickle and a hard-boiled 
egg, chopped fine. 



34 £0e €0frfCng;®i60 JJupper 



CUERIED HALIBUT. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

One teaspoonful curry-powder. 

One teaspoonful minced onion. 

Half pint milk. 

One gill cream. 

Two cupfuls cold boiled or baked hali- 
but, flaked up fine. Fresh cod may be 
used, if it is very good. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

One even teaspoonful salt. 

Cook together the onion and the but- 
ter, add the curry-powder mixed with the 
flour, and when these bubble stir in the 
milk and the cream. Put in the fish, salt 
it, and when it is smoking hot add the 
lemon- juice. 



@ %Mitt QKefffe of St*0 35 



FRESH COD WITH ANCHOVY. 

Flake cold boiled cod, and to two cups 
of this allow two hard-boiled eggs, minced 
fine, a tablespoonful of anchovy jmste, and 
a cup of white sauce. When this last is 
cooked smooth and thick stir in the an- 
chovy and the eggs, and then the fish. 
Toss up from the bottom that the flavor 
of the anchovy may get all through the 
fish. 

BROOK TROUT. 

Put two tablespoonfuls of the best 
butter in the blazer, and when it is very 
hot lay in small brook trout. Cook un- 
til they are done through — it will require 
only a few minutes — and serve on hot 
plates. 

Or, if you prefer, you may heat two or 
three tablespoonfuls of pure olive-oil and 
cook the fish in this. In either case they 



$6 &$t Cfafin&faiBfy puppet 

should be taken out with a fork, to free 
them from as much of the grease as pos- 
sible. A few sprays of parsley fried with 
them is a pleasant addition. 

SARDINES SAUTE. 

Select good-sized, boneless sardines, lay 
them on tissue-paper to free them from 
oil, and carefully scrape off the skin with- 
out breaking the fish. Melt a tablespoon- 
ful of butter in the blazer, lay in the fish, 
and cook about three minutes, turning 
them once. When they are done squeeze 
over them a few drops of lemon-juice, 
dust very lightly with cayenne, and serve 
on toast. 

frogs' legs. 

To prepare these for the chafing-dish 
they should be skinned, as you generally 
find them in market, put over the fire in 



@ ^reffg (getffe of $00 37 

boiling water, and cooked five minutes. 
They should then be blanched by having 
cold water poured over them. After 
this dry them, salt and pepper them, 
and dredge them in flour. Melt two ta- 
blespoonfuls of butter in the blazer, and 
cook the frogs' legs in this to a good 
brown. Serve fried parsley with them. 
Or, you may keep them hot in the 
blazer while you make a cream sauce 
in the lower dish, which is generally re- 
served for hot water. This sauce is made 
by cooking together two tablespoonfuls of 
butter and one tablespoonf ul of flour, and 
adding to them half a pint of rich milk, 
and pepper and salt to taste. Serve the 
frogs' legs in this. 

HALIBUT STEAK. 

Do not have your steaks more than 
three-quarters of an inch thick and about 
four inches square. Sprinkle them with 



38 £$e CfSafmg^isfl JJupper 

salt and white pepper, dip them in an egg 
beaten up in a saucer with a tablespoon- 
ful of cold water, and then lay them in 
flour. Coat them well with this. Have 
three tablespoonfuls of butter smoking 
hot in the blazer, and smite your steaks 
in this over a moderate flame. If it is 
too fierce, the fish may scorch before it is 
done through. Serve sliced lemon with 
it. 

FISH WITH SAUCE PIQUANT. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful tarragon vinegar. 

One tablespoonful tomato or walnut 
catsup. (Better than either is cucumber 
catsup.) 

One tablespoonful sherry. 

Half a small onion, minced fine. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

Cayenne pepper at discretion. 

One pint cold flaked fish. 



<& $KttV (getffe of $00 39 

Put all but the fish in the blazer, and 
cook together three or four minutes. 
When the sauce is boiling hot put in the 
fish, turn it well so that the sauce may 
penetrate it, and cook until all is thor- 
oughly clone. 

SHAD-ROES, SAUTE. 

Prepare the shad-roe by cooking it 
ten minutes in boiling salted water, to 
which has been added a teaspoonful of 
vinegar. This may be done in the lower 
compartment of the chafing-dish. When 
the roes are done, throw them in cold wa- 
ter for five or ten minutes to blanch them, 
then dip them in flour. Put two table- 
spoonfuls of butter in the blazer, and lay 
in the pair of roes. They will cook more 
quickly and evenly if you will cut each 
into two or three pieces. When done 
take them out, melt a little more butter 



40 £0e €(fafing;©i65 puppet 

in the blazer, and serve some of this 
with each portion of the roe. Pass sliced 
lemon with this. 



CREAMED SHAD-ROES. 

One pair shad-roes, parboiled, blanched, 
skinned, and crumbled. 

Three hard-boiled eggs, the whites 
chopped coarsely, the yolks grated into 
a separate dish. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Half pint milk. 

One gill cream. 

One even teaspoonful salt. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

A few dashes of cayenne. 

Cook the butter and flour together un- 
til they bubble, add the milk, and when 
the sauce is thick and smooth put in the 
roes. Cook three minutes, stirring con- 



$ $retfe QKefffe of §i00 4' 

stantly, then add the cream, the whites of 
the eggs, salt and pepper, and cook three 
minutes longer, or until the contents of 
the blazer begin to bubble. Sprinkle the 
grated yolks over the top of the roes, and 
serve at once. 

This is a pretty as well as an appetizing 
dish, and, in spite of the long direction, 
is not difficult or tedious to make. 



TERRAPIN". 

The simplest way of preparing this de- 
licious dish is generally conceded to be the 
best. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter 
into the blazer ; when it is hot, add the 
terrapin, season with salt and cayenne, 
pour over it three tablespoonfuls of sher- 
ry, and serve as soon as it is all heated 
through. 



CHAPTER V. 

OYSTERS, CLAMS, SCALLOPS 
PANNED OYSTEKS, PLAIN". 

In two tablespoonfuls of butter, melted 
in the blazer, lay twenty good-sized oys- 
ters. As soon as the edges curl, dust 
them with pepper and salt, and serve at 
once on toast. 

PANNED OYSTERS WITH SHERRY. 

Cook the oysters as directed above, and 
when they reach the "curling" point, 
put in two tablespoonfuls of sherry or 
madeira. Cook one minute longer, and 
serve on toast. 



©gefere, Cfame, Jfcaffops 43 



BKOILED OYSTERS. 

Select large, plump oysters, rub the 
bottom of the blazer with butter, and 
when it is hot, lay in the oysters. They 
will brown very quickly, and must be 
watched closely and turned promptly, or 
they will scorch. Should they stick to 
the pan, add a little more butter. 



FRIED OYSTERS. 

For this also large oysters should be 
chosen. Drain them, sprinkle them with 
a little salt and white pepper, and roll 
them in flour or cracker dust. Heat four 
tablespoonfuls of olive-oil in the blazer, 
and when it is boiling hot, drop in the 
oysters. Turn them when brown on one 
side and cook on the other. Lift out 
with a fork. Pass sliced lemon with 



44 €$t C0aftngs<©t0# JJupper 

them. Those people who have a preju- 
dice against oil may use butter in its 
place. 

STEWED OYSTERS. 

Cook together a tablespoonf ul of butter 
and one of flour in the blazer. Add to it 
one pint of oyster liquor, and when this 
is boiling hot, put in twenty-five oysters. 
As soon as the edges crimp they are done. 
Season with salt and white pepper and 
two grates of a nutmeg. 

CURRIED OYSTERS. 

One solid pint oysters. 
Half pint oyster liquor. 
Half pint milk. 

Two teaspoonfuls curry powder. 
Two tablespoonfuls butter. 
One tablespoonful flour. 
Half teaspoonful onion juice. 
One small teaspoonful salt. 



&VBUxts, Cfame, §cMop* 45 

Put in the butter and onion juice, add 
the flour and curry powder, and when the 
mixture bubbles, stir in the oyster liquor 
and the milk. When the sauce is smooth 
and boils, put in the oysters, and cook 
until they plump and the edges crimp, 
which will be in about four minutes. 



OYSTERS A LA POULETTE. 

Thirty oysters. 

One pint cream. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

Saltspoonful white pepper. 

Three grates of a nutmeg. 

Cook together the butter and flour, add 
the cream, stirring constantly. When it 
boils, put in the oysters, and cook about 
four minutes. When they are plump, 
season, and cerve on toast or crackers. 



46 Z$z €0afmg;;©t00 JJupper 



FRICASSEED OYSTERS WITH MUSHROOMS. 

Thirty oysters. 

Half cupful mushrooms, sliced. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Three gills cream. 

One gill mushroom liquor. 

Yolks of two eggs. 

Scant teaspoonful salt. 

Pinch of white pepper. 

Cook together the butter and flour over 
hot water, pour upon them the cream and 
the mushroom liquor, put in the oysters 
and the mushrooms, and when the former 
begin to plump, stir in the beaten yolks 
of the eggs, very slowly. Unless this is 
done with great caution the sauce will 
curdle. Cook them only a minute, until 
the raw yellow becomes creamy, season, 
and serve. These are especially nice 
upon Graham toast. 



&V&tm, Cfame, ^caffo^g 47 



DEVILLED OYSTERS. 

Twenty oysters. 

One tablespoonful olive-oil, or melted 
butter. 

One gill oyster liquor. 

One teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. 

Pinch cayenne. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

Half teaspoonful curry powder. 

Mix all the ingredients except the oys- 
ter liquor and oysters in the blazer before 
you light the lamp. As soon as they 
begin to heat over the flame, put in the 
liquor, and when this boils add the oys- 
ters. Turn them two or three times, and 
cook until plump. 

LITTLE PIGS IN BLANKETS. 

Choose large, plump oysters, and wrap 
about each a thin slice of corned pork 



4& Zfc Cfafin&ffiizfy puppet 

or fat bacon, pinning it with a wooden 
tooth-pick. Lay them in the heated 
blazer, and cook until the pork or bacon 
is crisj}. 

OYSTER CRABS. 

Heat two tablespoonfuls of butter in 
the blazer, put in the oyster crabs, cook 
three minutes, season with salt and cay- 
enne, and serve. 

CREAMED CLAMS. 

One pint soft clams. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

One pint cream. 

One tablespoonful sherry. 

Yolks of two eggs. 

Cook together the butter and flour over 
boiling water, add the cream, and when 
you have a smooth sauce put in the 



<DE0fer0, Cfams, ^caffo^s 49 

clams. As soon as they are plump, stir 
in the beaten yolks, drop by drop. Cook 
two minutes longer, add the sherry, and 
serve at once. 

CLAMS A LA NEWBURG. 

One pint clams. 

Two tablespoonf uls butter. 

One gill sherry. 

Half pint cream. 

Yolks of two eggs. 

Scant teaspoonful salt. 

A little cayenne pepper. 

Trim from the clams the -tough part, 
being careful not to cut into the soft por- 
tion. Melt the butter over boiling water, 
stirring constantly ; when creamy, put in 
the sherry. Beat together the yolks of 
the eggs and the cream, and add gradu- 
ally, stirring all the time. As soon as it 
is all mixed, turn in the clams, and cook 
until plump. 



50 £0e £0aftng;:©t00 puppet 



CLAMS AN"D BACOjST. 

Twenty-five clams. 

Half a dozen thin slices of the best bacon. 

Pepper the clams lightly, and roll them 
in flour. Lay the bacon in the blazer, 
and let the fat fry out of it. Draw it 
then to the side of the blazer, lay in the 
clams, and cook, turning them until 
brown on both sides. 

Nearly all the recipes supplied for oys- 
ters may be used for cooking clams. 

FRIED SCALLOPS. 

One pint scallops. 

Three tablespoonfuls butter. 

Pour boiling water on the scallops, and 
leave them in this five minutes. Drain 
and dry them. Sprinkle with pepper and 
salt, roll them in flour, and fry them in 
the blazer in the butter. 



£)g0fer0, €fam0, JJcaffope 5/ 



CREAMED SCALLOPS. 

One pint scallops. 

One pint milk. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Two tablespoonfuls butter. 

Half teaspoonful salt. 

White pepper. 

Let the scallops stand in boiling water 
five minutes, and drain them. Cook to- 
gether the butter and flour, add the milk, 
and simmer until smooth. Put in the 
scallops, cook five minutes, season, and 
serve. 





CHAPTER VI 

WITH THE CRUSTACEANS 
CURRIED LOBSTER. 

One pint lobster. 

One pint weak soup stock. 

One teaspoonful onion, minced fine. 

Two teaspoonf uls curry powder. 

Scant teaspoonful salt. 

Brown the onion in the butter, add the 
salt, the curry powder, and the stock, and 
let them boil together for five minutes. 
Put in the lobster then, and serve as 
soon as it is heated through. If possible, 
boiled rice should be served with this. 



TTtffJ ffle Ctmtaccants 53 



CREAMED LOBSTER. 

One pint lobster. 

Half pint milk. 

Half pint cream. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One heaping tablespoonful flour. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

Even teaspoonful salt. 

Pinch of cayenne. 

Make a sauce by cooking together over 
boiling water the butter and the flour, 
and adding to it the milk and half the 
cream. Put the lobster into this sauce, 
add pepper and salt, and stir until it is 
smoking hot. Put in then the rest of the 
cream, cook just long enough to heat this, 
squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve. 

This is a delicious preparation of lob- 
ster. 



54 Zfy Cfyafiw^iBfy JJupper 



DEVILLED LOBSTER. 

For this the lobster meat must be pro- 
cured in as large pieces as possible. Small 
fragments will not answer the purpose. 
Coat each piece with a paste made by 
working into a tablespoonful of butter 
a teaspoonf ul of curry powder, the same 
of made mustard, half a teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce, and a saltspoon- 
ful of salt. Melt three tablespoonfuls of 
butter in the blazer, and saute the lobster 
in this. 

LOBSTER A LA NEWBURQ. 

One pint lobster. 
Half pint cream. 
Yolks of three eggs. 
One gill sherry. 
Half teaspoonful salt. 
Pinch of red pepper. 



Witty flje CtmtactanB 55 

Put the cream, wine, and beaten yolks 
together in the chafing-dish, over boiling 
water, and cook, stirring steadily, until 
the sauce thickens. Put in the lobster, 
let it become heated through, season, and 
serve. A larger proportion of sherry may 
be used, if desired. Or, the sherry may 
be passed with the lobster after it is 
served, that each may add it to suit him- 
self. 

LOBSTER SAUTE. 

Melt a tablespoonful of butter in the 
blazer. As soon as it is bubbling hot, put 
in a pint of the meat of fresh lobster, or 
the contents of a can of lobster. If the 
latter is used, it should have been turned 
out a couple of hours before it is needed, 
and in either case the meat should be cut 
— not chopped — into small pieces. Stir 
the lobster briskly, salt to taste, add a 
dash of cayenne and the juice of half a 



56 Z$t Cfjaftn^©^ ^upptv 

lemon. As soon as the lobster is very 
hot, it is done. 



SAVOKY LOBSTER. 

Put into the chafing-dish a heaping 
tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoonful of 
dry mustard, as much salt, and a couple 
of dashes of cayenne pepper. Stir in the 
lobster next. The meat of one large or 
two small ones may be used, or the con- 
tents of a can. When it is smoking hot, 
put in a wineglassful of sherry and the 
juice of half a lemon, cook a minute 
longer, and serve. The wine may be 
omitted if desired, but its use adds much 
to the flavor of the dish. 

SOFT-SHELL CEABS, SAUTE. 

Remove the " apron," or loose shell, 
and the spongy substance on both sides of 
the upper shell. Sprinkle the crabs with 



TEtff} f0e Crustaceans 57 

salt and pepper, and dip them in flour. 
Have boiling hot in the blazer three or 
four tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and 
fry the crabs in this. Small ones are the 
best for this purpose. They will require 
eight to ten minutes cooking, and should 
be browned on both sides. 

DEVILLED SOFT-SHELL CRABS. 

Spread on the crabs the paste described 
in the recipe for devilled lobster and saute 
in butter. 

HARD-SHELL CRABS 

may be cooked by recipes for curried and 
savory lobster, and lobster saute. 

STEWED SHRIMPS. 

Shrimps are among the few canned arti- 
cles of food that are nearly as good thus 
prepared as when fresh from the market. 



5# &0e CfyafimtfaizV puppet 

For stewed shrimps heat in the blazer 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, and when it 
boils, put in the shrimps. (If canned, it 
is well to rinse them in cold water before 
cooking them.) When they are heated 
through, pour in a gill of boiling water, 
cook one minute longer, add the juice of 
half a lemon, a little salt and cayenne. 

CREAMED SHRIMPS. 

One can shrimps. 

Two tablespoonfuls butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

One pint milk. 

Scant teaspoonful salt. 

A little cayenne. 

Cook together the butter and flour, add 
the milk, and cook until the sauce is 
smooth, put in the shrimps, and simmer 
until they are heated through. Season 
and serve. 



<Wit$ tfyt Crustaceans 59 



CURRIED SHRIMPS. 

One can shrimps. 

One tablespoonf ul butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Two teaspoonf uls curry powder. 

Half teaspoonf ul salt. 

One teaspoonful Chutney sauce. 

One pint boiling water. 

Cook the butter and onion in the bla- 
zer ; when the latter is brown, add the 
flour and curry powder, cook until they 
bubble, and pour the boiling water upon 
them. Stir constantly, and when smooth, 
put in the Chutney and the shrimps. 
They should cook about five minutes. 




CHAPTER VII 

A CHAPTER ON ENTREES 
BROILED SWEETBREADS. 

Sweetbreads must always be parboiled 
and blanched before using. Wash them 
well, lay them in boiling water, and let 
them simmer ten minutes. Take them 
out and plunge them in cold water. 
Leave them in this for ten minutes. All 
this should be done before the time when 
they are to take their place in the chafing- 
dish. 

To broil sweetbreads, cut them in half 
lengthwise, after parboiling and blanching 
them, and dust them with salt and white 
pepper. Have the blazer quite hot, rub 



$ Chapter on (Entries 61 



it with butter, and lay in the sweetbreads. 
They will broil quickly, and must be 
watched carefully lest they should scorch. 
If they stick, add a little more butter. 
When they are delicately browned, put in 
a tablespoonf ul of butter, and as soon as 
it is melted, extinguish the flame. Serve 
a little of the butter with each portion of 
sweetbread. 

SWEETBREADS, SAUTE. 

Parboil and blanch the sweetbreads, cut 
them in half lengthwise, and then cut 
each half into two pieces. Sprinkle these 
with salt and pepper. Beat up one egg in 
a saucer with a tablespoonful of water. 
Dip each slice of sweetbread first in this 
and then in cracker dust. Have ready' 
in the blazer two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, and when this is very hot lay in the 
sweetbreads. Cook until well browned. 



62 Zfy €0afing;©tG0 ^upper 

LARDED SWEETBREADS, SAUTE. 

Parboil and blanch the sweetbreads, and 
run through each four or five thin strips 
of fat salt pork. Do this with a larding- 
needle, or a sharp, narrow-bladed knife, 
and let the ends of the pork project on 
each side. Have a tablespoonful of but- 
ter in the blazer, and cook the sweet- 
breads in this, turning often. Let them 
cook rather slowly. 

CREAMED SWEETBREADS. 

One pair sweetbreads, parboiled, 
blanched, and cut into small pieces. 

Half pint cream. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Salt, white pepper, and a pinch of nut- 
meg. 

Melt the butter over boiling water, stir 



$ Chapter on (Bntxue 63 

in the flour, and when this is well mixed, 
the cream. As soon as the sauce is 
smooth put in the sweetbreads, season, 
and cook for five minutes. 



SWEETBREADS WITH MUSHROOMS. 

One pair sweetbreads. Parboil, blanch, 
and slice them. 

One dozen mushrooms, chopped coarsely. 

Half pint cream. 

One gill mushroom liquor. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Yolks of two eggs. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Cook the butter and flour together 
over boiling water, pour upon them the 
cream and mushroom liquor. Stir until 
smooth, and lay in the sweetbreads. Let 
them cook three minutes, put in the 
chopped mushrooms and seasoning, and 



04 £0e £0afin$::©i6(5 JJupper 

add the beaten yolks of the eggs very 
slowly, stirring all the time. Cook two 
minutes after the eggs are in, and serve. 



KIDNEYS WITH BACON. 

Select lamb kidneys, and have them 
split in half and skewered open with very 
small skewers, caught through the outer 
skin. Lay in the blazer half a dozen 
thin slices of fat breakfast bacon, and 
cook out the fat ; then draw the bacon to 
the side of the pan and put in the kid- 
neys. They will require about six min- 
utes to cook, and must be turned often. 
When brown and tender (test them with 
a fork), they are done. Add then a tea- 
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce to the 
gravy, and serve a slice of bacon and a 
little gravy with each portion of kidney. 
These should, if possible, be served on 
thin toast or fried bread. 



@ Chapter on €ntet& 65 



STEWED KIDNEYS. 

Two pairs kidneys. 

One cup consomme, or stock. 

Half small onion, minced. 

Two tablespoonfuls butter. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

Split the kidneys, trim off the fat and 
skin, and cut each kidney into three or 
four pieces. Heat the butter in the blaz- 
er, lay in the kidneys, add the onion, 
the stock, and the seasoning. Cover, 
and cook about eight minutes. Add the 
lemon-juice, and serve the kidneys ' on 
toast or fried bread. 



KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS. 

Two pairs lamb kidneys, skinned and 
quartered. 

A dozen mushrooms, sliced thin. 



66 Zfy C0aftng;©i0(J ^upper 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Half an onion, minced fine. 

Half pint consomme, or stock. 

One gill mushroom liquor. 

Scant teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Heat the butter and onion in the 
blazer, add the flour, and stir until it 
browns, put in the stock, the mushroom 
liquor, Worcestershire, and seasoning, and 
let them simmer two minutes, stirring 
constantly. Put in the kidneys and 
mushrooms, and cook for five or six min- 
utes. Stir often. Serve on toast or fried 
bread. 

calf's liver, saute. 

Half pound of liver, cut into thin slices. 
Two tablespoonfuls butter. 
One teaspoonful onion, minced fine. 
Two tablespoonfuls sherry. 



(g. Chapter on (BntxhB 67 

One tablespoonful mushroom catsup. 

Salt, pepper, and flour. 

Heat the butter in the blazer with the 
onion. Sprinkle the liver with pepper 
and salt, and coat each slice thickly with 
flour. Lay them in the butter, and cook 
to a light brown, turning often. When 
they are done, either keep them warm 
over hot water, or else draw them to the 
side of the dish while you add to the 
butter the sherry and catsup, and let this 
boil up once. Lay the liver back in the 
sauce, extinguish the lamp, and serve. 

calf's liver axd bacon. 

Cut both liver and bacon into thin 
slices. Lay the bacon in the blazer, and 
when the fat has cooked out, draw the 
bacon to one side, put in the liver, first 
peppering each slice and rolling it in 
flour. Cook until brown and tender, 



68 £#e CMm^W gwm* 



turning often. You may serve it as it is, 
or you may take out the meat, add to the 
fat in the pan a tablespoonful of browned 
flour, half a pint of boiling water, a little 
salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce. Let this boil up, 
and pour over the meat, or return this to 
the chafing-dish after extinguishing the 
lamp. 

calf's liver and bacon, no. 2. 

Bub the blazer with onion and put in 
the bacon. When it begins to crisp, lay 
in very thin slices of liver. Cook until 
this is done and begins to curl at the 
edges. Serve a slice of bacon with each 
piece of liver. 

calf's brains, saute. 

The brains must be washed and cooked 
fifteen minutes in boiling water, to which 



<& Cfaptix on <Sr\tv£tB 6 9 



has been added a teaspoonful of vinegar. 
Blanch, and remove bits of skin, etc. 

Break them up with a fork, and mix 
them to a paste with a beaten egg and a 
little pepper and salt. Have ready in the 
blazer two tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
when this is very hot put in the brains 
by the spoonful, taking care that the por- 
tions do not crowd each other. Turn 
carefully, so as not to break them. Fry 
until brown, and serve. 

calf's brains, au beurre noir. 

Boil the calf s brains with a bay leaf, 
two sprigs of thyme, and a little salt in 
the lower pan of the chafing-dish. When 
they are done take them out, cut the 
brains in thick slices, and pour over them 
a sauce made by cooking in the blazer 
until brown two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
When it reaches this point, add four drops 



70 Z$* C^afing;©^ puppet 

of vinegar, and pour it at once over the 
brains. 

calf's brains, creamed. 

Parboil the brains, blanch them, and 
cut them into small pieces. Cook to- 
gether, over hot water, a tablespoonful of 
butter and a scant one of flour ; add half 
a pint of milk, and when the sauce is 
smooth, put in the brains. Cook three 
minutes, salt and pepper, and put in 
slowly the beaten yolk of one egg, stir- 
ring constantly. Cook two minutes, and 
serve. 

TRIPE WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

Select the thick honeycomb tripe, boil 
it, and cut it into strips about an inch 
wide by three inches long. Put into the 
blazer two tablespoonfuls butter and half 
a teaspoonful of onion, minced fine. 
When these are hot, lay in the tripe, first 



(g- Chapter on (Bnfrees 7/ 

dredging each slice well in flour. Cook 
until brown, turning often. Take it out, 
add to the butter in the pan a half pint of 
cream, into which has been stirred a scant 
tablespoonful of flour. Cook, stirring all 
the time, until you have a smooth, thick 
sauce, return the tripe to it, and serve. 

CREAMED TRIPE. 

This may be prepared by the recipe for 
Calf's Brains, Creamed. 

LAMB CHOPS. 

Rub the inside of the blazer with but- 
ter, make it very hot. and broil the chops 
in it. They should be turned often, and 
if they show signs of scorching or stick- 
ing, a little more butter may be applied. 
Large, thick chops cannot be so easily 
cooked in this fashion, but small lamb 
chops may readily be prepared in a chaf- 



72 $0e Cftoftng^iBt} puppet 

ing-dish, and are hardly less excellent 
than those that have been broiled on a 
gridiron. The essential point is to have 
the dish so hot when the meat is laid in 
as to sear the surface at once, and thus 
prevent the escape of the juices. 



BROILED BEEFSTEAK. 

This may be cooked exactly as are the 
lamb chops. 

BEEFSTEAK WITH WINE SAUCE. 

Rub both blazer and steak with lemon,, 
then put a little butter in the blazer and 
broil the steak. When it is about half 
done — say in five minutes — pour over it a 
gill of consomme and a gill of sherry. 
Let it cook in this six or eight minutes 
longer, turning it several times. Just be- 
fore serving it, add the juice of a lemon. 



<S Cfapttv on (Entrees 73 



BEEF MINCE. 

Have a pound of beef from the round 
minced very fine by your butcher, and 
free it from all sinews and stringy bits. 
Heat in the blazer two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, put in the meat and a teaspoonful 
of onion-juice. Stir for three or four 
minutes, or until the meat is hot through ; 
add salt, pepper, and the juice of half a 
lemon, and serve. 

FRICASSEE OF DRIED BEEF. 

One cupful dried beef, chopped fine. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

Half pint milk. 

Two eggs. 

Melt the butter in the milk, over hot 
water, put in the meat and cook about 
five minutes, add the beaten eggs slowly 
and stir until the sauce is thick. 

Serve on toast or fried bread. 



74 £§t Cljaftng^te^ JJupper 



VEXISON' STEAK. 

Rub the blazer with butter, broil the 
steak as you would beefsteak, but do not 
overcook. Sprinkle it with salt and pep- 
per, put in half a wineglass of sherry and 
a tablespoonful of currant jelly ; leave 
covered two minutes, and serve on very 
hot plates. 




CHAPTER VIII 

MISCELLANEOUS DAINTIES 
FRIED TOMATOES. 

Cut the tomatoes into thick slices. Do 
not peel them. Put in the blazer two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and lay the to- 
matoes in this. Turn them quite often, 
and cook until tender. Sprinkle with 
salt and serve. These make an excellent 
accompaniment to cold meat. 

DEVILLED TOMATOES. 

Cook the tomatoes as directed above, 
and keep them hot while you add to the 
butter in the blazer another tablespoonf ul 
of butter, a teaspoonful of onion-juice, a 



76 Z§c C0aftng;©i60 Jhipper 

tablespoonful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of 
sugar, half a teaspoonful each of made 
mustard and salt, and a pinch of cayenne. 
All these may have been mixed in a howl, 
and the mixtures put into the blazer at 
once. Turn in upon them, drop by drop. 
the beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring all 
the time, and as soon as it is all in. ex- 
tinguish the flame beneath. Lay the to- 
matoes back in the sauce, and serve. 



CURRIED TOMATOES. 

Cook half a teaspoonf ul of onion, minced 
fine, in two tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
add to this a teaspoonful of curry-powder. 
When this is well blended put in the 
sliced tomatoes, and cook as directed in 
recipe for Fried Tomatoes. 



(TtltecefTaneoue ©ainftee jj 



CREAMED TOMATOES. 

Half pint cream or rich milk. 

One tablespoonful flour. 

Two tablespoonfuls of butter. 

Salt and a little white pepper. 

Six firm tomato 
^Cut them in thick .slices, and fry them 
in the butter. "When tender, stir in the 
cream or milk with which the flour has 
been smoothly mixed. Cook, stirring 
constantly, until the sauce thickens, and 
serve. 

FRESH MUSHROOMS. SAUTE. 

Peel and wash the mushrooms and cut 
off the stems. Melt two tablespoonfuls of 
butter in the blazer, lay the mushrooms 
in this, and cook eight or ten minutes, 
turning them often. Season them with 
salt and pepper, squeeze in the juice of 



78 Zfc £^^©100 puppet 

half a lemon, and sprinkle over them a 
little finely minced parsley. Serve on 
toast. 

FRESH MUSHROOMS, STEWED. 

Peel and wash the mushrooms and cut 
off the stems. Put a tablespoonfnl of 
butter and one of flour in the chafing- 
dish, over boiling water, witli the mush- 
rooms, and let them cook twelve or fif- 
teen minutes. You may then add salt 
and pepper to them, and serve ; or, sea- 
son and pour over them slowly a gill of 
cream in which has been beaten the yolk 
of an egg. Cook three minutes after this 
goes in. 

GREEN PEAS (FRESH). 

The peas must be very young and 
fresh. Put one cup of boiling water in 
the blazer, and turn in a pint of peas. 
Have a very hot flame, and cook the 



Qttieceffcmeoue ©ainftefi 79 

peas until tender. Drain off the water, 
sprinkle the peas with salt and white 
pepper, and stir into them a tablespoon- 
f ul of butter. 

GREEN" PEAS (CANNED). 

Drain the liquor from a. can of French 
peas. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter 
in the blazer, put in the peas, and let 
them get heated through, stirring con- 
stantly. Too long cooking toughens 
them. 

CREAMED POTATOES. 

Cut boiled potatoes into small squares. 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
frying-pan, add half a pint of milk, and 
warm the potatoes in this. When they 
are hot, stir in a tablespoonful of flour 
wet up in a little cold milk, and cook 
until it thickens. Season with salt and 
pepper, and serve. 



80 Z$t C0afin^©t6f5 ^upper 

POTATOES, SAUTE. 

Peel several new potatoes and cut them 
into thin slices. Melt in the blazer two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, or of really good 
dripping. Chicken fat or dripping is 
especially good for this purpose. When 
it is very hot, put in the potatoes, and 
cook them to a light brown. 

LYONNAISE POTATOES. 

Slice a small onion very thin. Fry it 
in the chafing-dish in two tablespoonfuls 
of butter or dripping. Slice half a dozen 
cold boiled potatoes and fry them with 
the onion. When they are done, sprinkle 
over them a tablespoonful of parsley, 
minced very fine. 

GREEN PEPPERS, SAUTE. 

Slice green peppers, removing the pun- 
gent seeds. Melt two tablespoonfuls of 



(glieceffaneoug ©cunftes 81 

butter in the blazer, and cook the pep- 
pers until they are brown and tender. 
Salt to taste. 

They are very good cooked in olive-oil, 
and make an appetizing garnish to cold 
meats or to steak. 



CHEESE FONDT. 

Prepare before coming to table a cup 
of fresh bread-crumbs and two cups of 
grated cheese. Beat two eggs light in a 
bowl. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in 
the chafing-dish, over boiling water, add 
a cupful of milk, a tiny pinch of soda, the 
crumbs and the cheese. Pepper and salt 
to taste, and cook about five minutes, or 
until smooth. Last of all, put in the two 
eggs and stir for about three minutes be- 
fore serving. 
6 



$0e Cflaftng^tal} JJupper 



WELSH RABBIT, XO. 1. 

Melt a heaping tablespoonful of butter 
in the chafing-dish with a saltspoonful of 
dry mustard, and stir into this three cup- 
fuls of grated cheese. As it begins to 
soften add about a gill of ale, or, in de- 
fault of this, an equal quantity of boiling- 
water. If water or boiling milk is used, 
it produces what is known as a ''temper- 
ance Welsh rabbit." Stir vigorously all 
the time, and when the mixture is thick, 
smooth, and a rich yellow, it is done. 
Three or four minutes should suffice after 
the cheese is in, but it is almost impossi- 
ble to give a positive rule for Welsh rab- 
bit. If the cooking is checked too soon, 
the cheese becomes tough and stringy ; if 
it continues too long, there is danger that 
it will curdle. Only the eye of experience 
can tell when the exact point is reached 



(JTlieceffcmeoue ©amftee 83 

to produce a compound of delicious indi- 
gestibility. It should be served on toast, 
but if this is not at hand, square snow- 
flake crackers make very tolerable substi- 
tutes. 

WELSH RABBIT, NO. 2. 

Half pound cheese, grated. The soft 
American dairy cheese should be used. 

Two eggs. 

One gill ale or beer. (Bass's white 
label ale is best.) 

One tablespoonful butter. 

One teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. 

One teaspoonful lemon-juice. 

One teaspoonful celery salt. 

Saltspoonful mustard. 

Pinch of cayenne. 

Melt the butter over boiling water, add 
the beer, and when these are smoking 
hot, put in the cheese. As soon as it is 



84 Zfc ClJafing^isO gkupptv 

smooth season with the celery salt, mus- 
tard, and pepper. Have ready the eggs, 
the whites and yolks beaten separately 
and very light, and then stirred together. 
Dip out some of the hot cheese mixture 
and pour it into the bowl with the eggs, 
stirring steadily. This will decrease the 
probability of the eggs curdling. When 
they are well mixed pour them into the 
chafing-dish slowly, never intermitting 
the stirring. When they are well blend- 
ed, and the mixture is smooth and creamy, 
put in the Worcestershire and lemon- juice, 
and serve at once on hot toast. This is a 
very delicious "rabbit." 



SALTED ALMONDS. 

Shell, blanch, and dry half a pound of 
almonds. Heat in the blazer one table- 
spoonful of olive-oil or as much butter. 
Put in the almonds and cook to a delicate 



(gttecefftmeous ©ainftes 



8 



brown, shaking the pan constantly and 
stirring often to keep them from burning. 
Drain, dry on soft paper, and sprinkle 
with fine salt. 





CHAPTER IX 

RECHAUFFES 
CHICK EX AU SUPREME. 

Cold roast or boiled chicken., cut into 
slices. The white meat is preferable, but 
both may be used. 

Two tablespoonfuls olive-oil. 

One tablespoonf ul butter. 

One tablespoonf ul flour. 

Half pint milk. 

One gill cream. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Lay the chicken in the oil for an hour 
before using. Turn it once, that each 
piece may be well coated. When at table 
melt the butter in the chafing-dish, stir 



(Kec0auffe0 87 



in the flour, add the milk and the cream, 
and stir until smooth. Put in the chick- 
en and cook three minutes, or until the 
chicken is hot through. 

CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS. 

Cold chicken or turkey, sliced or cut 
into small pieces. Have about a pint of 
the meat. 

Half cup canned mushrooms, sliced. 

Two tablespoonfuls butter. 

One tablespoonful Hour. 

Half pint milk. 

One gill mushroom liquor. 

Yolks of two eggs. 

.Salt and white pepper. 

Make a sauce over boiling water of the 
butter. Hour, milk, and mushroom liquor, 
add the chicken, cook three minutes, put 
in the mushrooms, and cook two minutes 
longer. Add the eggs then, very slowly, 



88 £0e £0afin3;©i00 ^upper 

stirring all the while, and as soon as the 
sauce is a pale creamy yellow — about two 
minutes — extinguish the lamp. 



CURRIED CHICKEN". 

Two cups cold chicken, light or dark 
meat, cut into small pieces. 

One cup chicken broth or gravy. 

Half a small onion, minced fine. 

One teaspoonful curry-powder. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

Salt to taste. 

Cook the onion in the butter for about 
three minutes, stir in the curry-powder 
and the broth. When all are hot put in 
the chicken, and let it simmer in the 
gravy from eight to ten minutes. 

Always, when possible, serve boiled 
rice with curry. Ice-cold bananas should 
be eaten with meat curries. 



(Rechauffes &9 



CREAMED CHICKEN". 



Two cups cold chicken, cut into small 
pieces. 

One cup chicken stock. 

One cup milk, or cream, if you have it 
at hand. 

Two tablespoonfuls butter. 

One heaping tablespoonful flour. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Cook the butter and flour together, add 
the stock and milk, stir until smooth, put 
in the chicken and seasoning, and cook 
three minutes longer. 



RECHAUFFE OF TURKEY, NO. 1. 

Make a sauce as elsewhere directed, 
using a tablespoonful of butter and one of 
flour, and half a pint of stock made from 
the turkey bones. Cut the turkey into 



90 Zfyt C0afings©i00 JJupper 

small slices, warm it in the sauce, and 
when it is hot through season with pep- 
per and salt, add two tablespoonfuls of 
sherry, cook two minutes longer, and 
serve. 

RECHAUFFE OF TURKEY, NO. 2. 

Heat a half pint of stock from the 
turkey -bones in the chafing-dish, over 
hot water, and when it is warm lay 
in the slices or pieces into which you 
have cut the dark meat of the cold tur- 
key. While it heats mix in a bowl two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs, a half teaspoonful of 
made mustard, a half teaspoonful of salt, 
and a pinch of cayenne. Bring this paste 
to the thickness of double cream by the 
addition of a little stock, add it to the 
meat and gravy in the chafing-dish, and 
cook, stirring, for five minutes. Add two 



(Rechauffes 9/ 



tablespoonfuls of sherry, cook two min- 
utes longer, and serve. 

Cold duck may be warmed over by 
either of these recipes for rechauffe of 
turkey. 

RECHAUFFE OF DUCK, NO. 1. 

Warm in a blazer two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, two tablespoonfuls of currant-jelly, 
and a gill of sherry, madeira, or port. 
Lay in this sauce pieces of cold duck, 
season with salt and pepper, and cook five 
minutes. This is an excellent sauce in 
which to warm wild duck or other game. 

RECHAUFFE OF DUCK, NO. 2. 

Two cups of cold roast duck, cut from 
the bones. 

Half pint gravy, made from the bones 
of the duck. 



92 Zfc Cfafin&fai&fy §upptr 

One gill claret. 

Two tablespoonfuls currant-jelly. 

One tablespoonf ul butter. 

A dozen olives, stoned. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Put all except the duck together in the 
blazer, and simmer three minutes. Lay 
in the pieces of duck, cook five minutes 
longer, and serve. 

VEAL WITH MUSHROOMS. 

About a pound of sliced veal. 
Half pint veal stock. 
One gill mushroom liquor. 
Half pint mushrooms, sliced. 
Yolks of two eggs. 
Two teaspoonfuls butter. 
One tablespoonf ul flour. 
One small onion, sliced. 
Brown the onion in the butter, add the 
flour, and cook until it browns. Stir in 



(Rechauffes 93 



the stock and mushroom liquor, and lay- 
in thin slices of cold roast veal. When 
these are hot, put in the mushrooms, and 
add the yolks of the eggs, very slowly. 
Cook two minutes more, and serve. 

VEAL WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS. 

Two cups very tender veal, roast or 
stewed. 

One cup cooked asparagus tips, fresh or 
canned. 

One tablespoonf ul butter. 

Yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. 

Half pint milk. 

Rub the yolks and butter to a paste 
and heat it with the milk in the chaf- 
ing-dish. Stir until thoroughly blended. 
Lay in the veal and asparagus, season 
with salt and white pepper, and cook 
about five minutes. 



94 £(5e C0afmgs©i00 JJupper 



VEAL WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

One tablespoonful butter. 

Two tablespoonfuls good tomato cat- 
sup. 

Half pint veal stock. 

Two cups cold roast veal, cut in small 
pieces. 

Heat all the ingredients but the veal 
first, then lay this in, add celery salt and 
white pepper to taste, and a pinch of cay- 
enne, and serve when the meat is smoking 
hot. 

Beef and mutton may be warmed over 
with the same sauce, substituting beef or 
mutton stock for the veal. 

DEVILLED MEAT. 

Cold rare beef, or underdone mutton, 
or the wings and drumsticks and sidebones 
of roast turkeys or large chickens may be 



(Rec0auffe0 95 



used for this. Make a sauce of a table- 
spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful each of 
vinegar and Worcestershire sauce, half a 
teaspoonful of made mustard, and a pinch 
of cayenne. Mix these thoroughly, make 
cuts in the meat with a knife, and rub 
the sauce into them. Heat the blazer, 
rub it with a little butter, and grill the 
meat in this. Serve very hot. 

CURRIED MEAT. 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
chafing-dish and cook in this a small 
onion cut in thin slices. When it is well 
browned add to it a tablespoonful of flour 
wet up with a little cold water, a tea- 
spoonful of curry-powder, the juice of a 
lemon, and a gill of hot water. Let all 
simmer together, stirring constantly for 
about five minutes, then lay in slices of 
cold meat of any kind cut very thin, or 



96 £0e Cffrifmg^iefl puppet 

stir in dice of the same. The meat 
should cook about ten minutes before it 
is served. If this allowance of curry- 
powder makes the stew too hot for the 
ordinary palate, less may be used. 



A SAVORY RECHAUFFE. 

Put into the chafing-dish two table- 
spoonfuls of butter and one of fruit-jelly 
— apple, currant, or grape — with a salt- 
spoonful of dry mustard. Stir until the 
butter and jelly are melted and blend. A 
rather low flame should be used for this 
to prevent any danger of the jelly scorch- 
ing. If wine is used, a couple of table- 
spoonfuls of sherry will be found an ac- 
ceptable addition. In the sauce thus 
prepared lay slices of underdone lamb, 
mutton, or roast beef. Salt and pepper 
them to taste and let them simmer for 
several minutes, turning them often that 



(Rechauffes 97 



they may be heated and seasoned thor- 
oughly, yet not scorched. This is an 
admirable recipe for warming over cold 
game or fowl. 

BARBECUED HAM. 

Cut rather thick slices of cold boiled 
ham, lay them in the blazer, and let them 
fry in their own fat. When they begin to 
crisp, draw them to the side of the dish, 
and add to the fat in the pan a table- 
spoonful of vinegar, a small teaspoonful 
of white sugar, a saltspoonful of mustard, 
and a little pepper. Mix well, put the 
meat into the sauce — bring this to the 
boil and cook two minutes. 

This is extremely good. 

hash — Last not Least. 

Cook half a minced onion in a table- 
spoonful of butter in the blazer, and stir 



98 Z$e Cfyafin&VdiBfy JJupper 



into it equal parts of chopped beef, 
corned or fresh, and potato, mashed or 
boiled and chopped. Moisten with gravy 
or soup, or, lacking these, boiling water 
and melted butter, season with celery salt 
and pepper, and add a teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce, or a half teaspoon- 
ful of made mustard, and serve it smok- 
ing hot. Even prosaic hash will gain 
interest when cooked in a chafing-dish, 
and, when thus prepared, it is a dish 
worthy of honor. 

A savory mince of lamb, mutton, or 
veal, or even of beef, may be prepared by 
the same recipe, omitting the potatoes. 




CHAPTER X 

THE CHAFING-DISH MENU 

A fault into which over-ambitious house- 
keepers are prone to fall is that of mak- 
ing the chafing-dish an adjunct instead 
of the central figure of the meal named 
in its honor. When one is bidden to 
an alleged chafing-dish tea, and finds 
there bouillon, croquettes, pates, or other 
entrees, salads, cliauds-froids, sweets, ices, 
wines, etc., he is impressed with the fact 
that the chafing-dish makes but a poor 
showing even when it is used to prepare 
some such delectable dainty as lobster 
a la Neiuburg, or sweetbreads and mush- 
rooms. 



ioo Zfyt C0afin3;©i60 JJupper 

At the chafing-dish supper all other 
parts should be subordinated to the 
holder of the title role. The hostess may 
accompany her hot dish with the desir- 
able accessories and follow it with a salad 
and a sweet, but she should give it no 
such rivals as elaborate entrees previously 
prepared by the cook. 

For the Sunday-night tea let the cor- 
don bleu of the chafing-dish devise a menu 
like one of the following : 

1. 

Panned Oysters with Sherry. 

Saratoga Potatoes. 

Graham Toast. 

Tomato and Lettuce Salad. 

Crackers and Cheese. 

Home made Charlotte Eusse. 



$0e CfyafiW'fai&V (gtenu 101 



2. 

Lobster a la Newburg. 

French Rolls. 

Cold Turkey. Celery Salad. 

Brandied Peaches. 

3. 

Fish Salad with Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Thin Bread and Butter. 

Cheese Fondu. 

Snowflake Crackers. 

Blanc-mange. Preserved Ginger. 

4. 

Cold Roast Beef, sliced thin. 

Creamed or Devilled Tomatoes. 

Baked Beans. 

Chicory Salad. 

Wine Jelly. 



02 $0e C^afing;©t0^ JJupper 



Sweetbreads with Mushrooms. 

Finger Rolls. 

Lettuce with French Dressing. 

Oatmeal Crackers. Cream Cheese. 

Fresh Fruit. 

6. 

Kidneys and Bacon, 
Baked Potatoes. 
Chicken Salad. 

Chocolate Sponge. 

With any of these suppers coffee may 
either be served with the first course, in 
large cups, or at the close of the meal, as 
at dinner, in demi-tasses. 

When the hostess has once come to re- 
gard the chafing-dish as an indispensable 
figure on the Sunday-night tea-table, she 



Zfc C0aftn^©i60 (Jttenu 103 



will readily plan new and attractive me- 
nus, and the component parts of these 
will be dishes that can be prepared in ad- 
vance, so that the maid to whose lot it 
falls to abide by the stuff on Sunday 
evening, may not have her labors in- 
creased by being obliged to cook a heavy 
meal. 

The midnight supper — and never does 
the chafing-dish look quite so much at 
home as when the centre of such a feast 
— is a much simpler affair. The phrase 
"midnight supper/' I may say, is more a 
figure of speech than a statement of facts. 
The period "midnight" is mentioned 
because of the flavor of the daring and 
unexpected it lends to a meal that is of- 
tener than not entirely proper and well- 
conducted. 

For the midnight supper, then, there 
need be no very involved preparations. 
There is no necessity for more than one 



io4 £($£ €#&fmg;©t60 JJupper 

important dish, and the salad need not 
appear. Lobster, in one form or other, 
creamed clams, broiled oysters, kidneys in 
some style, curries, game, devilled dishes, 
Welsh rabbits — these are among the vi- 
ands suitable for a late evening repast, 
whether it be eaten at midnight or one or 
two hours earlier. At such a feast there 
should be plenty of bread and butter, or 
sandwiches or crackers, and something to 
drink — coffee, chocolate, beer, ale, claret 
cup, punch, or a light wine. 

There is no need to suggest menus for 
luncheons. The luncheon at which the 
chafing-dish appears is usually a home 
meal for home people, and such vege- 
tables, bread, etc., are selected as accom- 
pany most suitably the made dish or 
rechauffe prepared by the house-mother. 
The bill of fare at such times shapes it- 
self, and the only condition to be empha- 
sized is that the provision should be am- 



£0e Cflaftng^tefJ QJtenu 105 

pie. The children, no less than their el- 
ders, find a new zest in the food they see 
cooked in the chafing-dish, and the appe- 
tites of these small ones usually demand 
large supplies. 

There is no doubt that the cookery 
really is better, especially when a rechauffe 
is in question, than when it is performed 
in the kitchen. So prominent a part do 
brains play in warming over food accept- 
ably that a woman who has a cook of 
only ordinary capacities must either su- 
perintend such work in the kitchen, or do 
it herself on the table, if she wishes to 
have it at its best. Much of the excel- 
lence of chafing-dish cookery consists, too, 
in the fact that the food thus prepared is 
served and eaten smoking hot. 

Should any devotee to chafing-dish 
cookery desire to widen the field of her 
usefulness and introduce the chafing-dish 
luncheon as a social function, she can 



106 $0e Cflafing;©^ JJupper 

model her menus on those suggested for a 
supper or go further and by the aid of 
two chafing-dishes prepare first a fish en- 
tree, then a meat course,, accompanied by 
potatoes in some form, and follow this with 
a vegetable or cheese entree. After pre- 
paring all these in chafing - dishes, she 
and her guests may feel entitled to a 
salad and a sweet that were compounded 
by the hands of an ordinary every-day 
chef. 

" The time when I think a chafing-dish 
should be useful," said a woman who had 
begun studying its possibilities. " is when 
one comes in hungry after the theatre and 
there is nothing to eat in the house." 

She went on to explain. 

" It's very well to use it for Sunday 
teas and summer noons and midnight 
suppers when you know they are coming. 
But it seems almost impossible to come in 
at an unearthly hour of a winter evening 



t0e £0afing;©i60 (menu ioy 

and get up a little spread when you have 
provided nothing to get it up with." 

The warmest admirers of the chafing- 
dish do not claim for it miraculous pow- 
ers, and when the cupboard is absolutely 
bare the alcohol may blaze in vain. But 
it is seldom that the pantry is utterly de- 
nuded. In almost every house there are 
kept constantly in store such provisions 
as eggs, butter, flour, cheese, potatoes, 
bread, crackers, and there are few houses 
where there is not also a small supply at 
least of bacon, or sardines, or potted meats, 
or fish, or canned goods of some sort, and 
curry-powder, pickles, catsups, and the 
like, with whose aid may be evolved a 
delicious impromptu supper. 

Moreover, in the house where the chaf- 
ing-dish is a recognized power, it is easy 
by a little forethought to have constantly 
on hand a few pint or half-pint cans of 
consomme, or a small jar of beef extract, 



io8 £0e €0aftng;©i00 JJupper 

a can of unsweetened condensed milk, 
and a few bottles of ale, as well as the 
stock groceries mentioned above. There 
is always the possibility, too, of the cold 
roast left from dinner, or the remains of 
a luncheon entree that may do its part in 
providing the foundation for the midnight 
supper. 




INDEX 



Almonds, salted, 84 

Beef, dried, fricassee 
of, 73 
mince, 73 
Beefsteak, broiled, 72 
with wine sauce, 72 
Brains, calf's, au beurre 
noir, 69 
creamed, 70 
saute, 68 

Calf's brains au beurre 
noir, 69 
creamed, 70 
saute, 68 
Calf's liver and bacon, 
No. 1, 67 
No. 2, 68 
Calf's liver saute, 66 
Cheese fondu, 81 



Chicken au supreme, 
86 

creamed, 89 

curried, 88 

with mushrooms, 87 
Clams d la Newburg, 
49 

and bacon, 50 

creamed, 48 
Cod, fresh, with ancho- 
vy, 35 

salt, creamed, 33 
Crabs, hard-shell, 57 

oyster, 48 

soft - shell, devilled, 
57 

soft-shell, mute, 56 
Curried chicken, 88 

eggs, 29 

halibut, 34 

lobster, 52 



no 



Snfcer 



Curried oysters, 44 
shrimps, 59 
tomatoes, 76 

Devilled lobster, 54 

meat, 94 

oysters, 47 

soft-shell crabs, 57 

tomatoes, 75 
Duck, rechauffe of. No. 
1, 91 

No. 2, 91 

Eggs, d Vltalienne, 26 
and anchovies, 25 
on anchovy toast, 18 
and bacon, 22 
with black butter, 21 
creamed, 17 
curried, 29 
with cheese, 18 
with curry, 20 
fricasseed, 28 
fried, 22 
with ham, 2G 
Lyonnaise, 28 
with mushrooms, 27 
poached, 20 
with sardines, 24 
scrambled, 16 



Eggs, stirred, 16 
with tomatoes, 23 

Pish with sauce pi- 
quant, 38 
Frogs' legs, 36 

Halibut, cunied, 34 

steak, 37 
Ham, barbecued, 97 
Hash, 97 

Kidneys with bacon, 
64 
with mushrooms, 65 
stewed, 65 

Lamb chops, 71 

Little pigs in blankets, 

47 
Liver, calf's, and bacon, 
No. 1, 67 
No. 2, 68 
Liver, calf's, saute, 66 
Lobster a la Newburg, 
54 
creamed, 53 
curried, 52 
devilled, 54 
saute, 55 
savory, 56 



3nbe,r 



/// 



Meat, curried, 05 

devilled, 94 
Mushrooms, fresh, 

saute, 77 
fresh, stewed, 78 

Omelet, 22 
Oyster crabs, 48 
Oysters a la pouletle, 
45 
broiled. 43 
curried, 44 
devilled, 47 
fricasseed, with mush- 
rooms, 40 
fried, 43 
panned, plain, 42 
panned, with sherry, 

42 
stewed, 44 

Peas, green, canned, 79 
green, fresh, 78 

Peppers, green, saute, 
80 

Potatoes, creamed, 79 
Lyonnaise, 80 
saute, 80 

Rarebit, a Scotch, 30 



Rechauffe of duck, No. 
1, 91 
of duck, No. 2, 91 
of turkey, No. 1, 89 
of turkey, No. 2, 90 
a savory, 96 

Salmon, creamed, 31 

curried, 32 
Salt cod, creamed, 33 
Sardines saute, 36 
Scallops, creamed, 51 

fried, 50 
Scotch rarebit, 30 
Shad-roes, creamed, 40 

saute, 39 
Shrimps, creamed, 58 

curried, 59 

stewed, 57 
Sweetbreads, broiled, 00 

creamed, 62 

larded, saute, 62 

saute, 61 

with mushrooms, 63 

Terrapin, 41 
Tomatoes, creamed, 77 

curried. 76 

devilled, 75 

fried, 75 



112 



3n^er 



Tripe, creamed, 71 
with cream sauce, 70 

Trout, brook, 35 

Turkey, rechauffe of, 
No. 1, 89 
rechauffe of, No. 2,90 

Veal with asparagus 
tips, 93 



Veal with mushrooms, 
92 
with tomato sauce, 
94 
Venison steak, 74 

Welsh rabbit, No. 1, 
82 
rabbit, No. 2, 83 








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